Melanogenesis – what influences skin pigmentation disorders, care, and prevention

Healthy skin has a smooth surface with numerous linear grooves that have an irregular course, crossing each other chaotically, which is referred to as “rete ridges.” This pattern is the result of the wavy arrangement of the dermal papillae, which is not fully aligned by the thin epidermis.

Unfortunately, as we age, our facial skin not only shows signs of the passage of time in the form of wrinkles but also undergoes skin aging, which contributes to melanogenesis, the production of melanin, and changes in its pigmentation, spots, discolorations, and depigmentation.

Discoloration, uneven skin tone, and an unaesthetic appearance are the result of many factors, including objective factors such as genetic and hormonal predispositions, the use of topical or systemic medications (including antibiotics, antifungal drugs, antidepressants, and certain herbal remedies), skin phototype, age-related factors (chronological), skin sensitivity, lifestyle, and stress.

External factors such as UV and HEV radiation, photodamage, pathogens, inflammatory changes (non-inflammatory processes within the skin can increase melanin production and damage melanocytes, resulting in the release of a large amount of pigment), environmental pollution, smog, and chemical damage (some substances can be photosensitizing, and skin damage resulting from the action of certain substances can intensify melanogenesis and contribute to the development of inflammatory processes) also play a role. Another factor is the use of inappropriate cosmetics, including those sensitized to light.

Among the plethora of available treatments, we can find those that are truly effective. One of the valuable and irreplaceable options in medicine and cosmetology is the use of retinoids, such as vitamin A and its derivatives. Chemical peels are also effective in addressing skin damage and pigmentation issues. These include kojic acid, phytic acid, pyruvic acid, and tranexamic acid (TXA) peels. In cases of severe photoaging, skin exfoliation is often performed using 50-70% glycolic acid or 30-35% trichloroacetic acid solutions. Chemical peels are highly regarded and effective treatments for various skin problems in cosmetic salons.

Micro-needling mesotherapy, also known as microneedling, is one of the few treatments that provides an excellent alternative. It enhances the permeability of the epidermis, allowing active substances to penetrate deeper layers and influence melanocytes. The micro-punctures themselves help calm overactive melanocytes. This treatment can be combined with other therapies to optimize results, such as combining it with vitamin C, a potent antioxidant that reduces the effects of oxidative stress and has a brightening effect.

Furthermore, there are various other skin-friendly devices in cosmetics that work based on scientific skincare methods. They act precisely on specific skin concerns, offering targeted solutions.

Among the factors coexisting with discolorations, damage to fibroblasts and collagen, as well as a deterioration of skin condition, are also mentioned.

Melanin, the pigment produced by melanocytes, which are nerve-derived cells, is responsible for the color of our skin. As nerve cells, melanocytes strongly respond to hormone levels, stress, and inflammatory conditions. When stimulated, they exhibit increased enzyme activity, resulting in excessive melanin production that becomes unevenly distributed and concentrated locally, causing unwanted pigmentation changes.

The changes can be classified as epidermal, dermal, or mixed. The most challenging ones are located deep within the dermis or are of mixed nature, known as vascular melasma, which is associated with enlarged and more numerous blood vessels. Lentigines, which are most characteristic in older individuals, result from chronic sun exposure. These changes are often observed on the hands, which are exposed to year-round sunlight, harmful environmental factors, and chemical substances. During photoaging, the living layers of the epidermis thin, leading to actinic keratosis and the development of lentigines, characterized by dark brown discolorations.

In the fight against discolorations, it is essential to use year-round sun protection, SPF 30+ in autumn-winter and SPF 50+ in summer, as well as to use appropriate skincare products with brightening and antioxidant properties throughout the year.

Choose specialized home care products that act as brighteners and illuminators with a suitable combination of nourishing substances that simultaneously improve hydration levels and promote skin regeneration, such as azelaic acid, arbutin, adenosine, acerola extract, vitamin C, licorice, niacinamide, gluconolactone, peptides, PRP growth factors, hyaluronic acid, trehalose, papain, micronized pearl, and blackcurrant extract. In our daily skincare routine, we should opt for gentle methods to support our skin’s microbiome. Excessive use of aggressive surfactants such as gels and soaps can damage the delicate protective barrier of the skin. When the microbiome loses balance, it opens the door to inflammatory changes on the skin and is unable to prevent the penetration of allergens and irritants, which can also lead to unwanted spots and discolorations.

Additionally, the skin struggles to retain water, leading to inadequate hydration and moisture levels.